More Byzantine Highlights

Last week, I told you how we were introduced to the Byzantine Highlights in former Constantinople by taking a specially designed tour. During the first half of that tour, we saw the defensive stone walls that once circled Constantinople and the Panorama 1453 History Museum which shows the Ottomans conquering the city. Additionally, we visited the Yedikule Fortress, also known as the Castle of Seven Towers Museum; the Chora Museum, called Kariye in Turkish; and the Pammakaristos Church, which is now the Fethiye Mosque. A tasty lunch fueled us up to continue the tour in the afternoon. Will you continue with us?

The surroundings of the Palace of Porphyrogenitus are not the most tourist friendly, photo by author

After lunch, the first stop is the ruined Palace of Porphyrogenitus. This is a multi-story building with interesting architectural features including arches, a courtyard and an ever so cute balcony perfect for a serenade. Restorations have been going on since July 2010, so the place is fenced off and can only be viewed from outside. For instance from parts of the ground that are now used for tour bus parking and from the neighboring sports grounds that host a special pigeon market on the weekends. The palace is located close to the end of Theodosius II’s wall, between the Fethiye Mosque and the next attraction.

The Greek Orthodox Church of St. George is still in use. From the outside, it looks like a modest building with a neo-Classical facade. But on the inside, golden colors sparkle forth from the iconostasis, the wall of icons and religious paintings separating the nave from the sanctuary. It’s a nice place to light a candle. Outside, also on the site of the Ecumenical Patriarchate, you will see Saint Peter’s Gate, once the main gate of the grounds. The gate hasn’t been opened since 1821, when Patriarch Gregory V was killed by hanging and left there to hang in the architrave for three days. Nowadays it’s just a gate leading to nowhere.

We then visit a building best known as the Church of Christ Pantocrator, but which is actually the Zeyrek Mosque. It is made of two former Eastern Orthodox churches (one of which is the church of Christ Pantocrator) and a chapel. The building is totally in ruins, still crumbling apart, though surrounded by scaffolding, because the building is undergoing slow restorations. These are planned to be finished in 2014. From the terrace of the Zeyrekhane restaurant across the street, you have a nice view across the golden horn.

The marble-framed windows of Boukoleon Palace, photo by Karin Poort

It has started drizzling again when we arrive at Boukoleon Palace. It lies on the southeast tip of the Old City triangle, facing the Marmara Sea. Boukoleon is named after the statues of a bull and a lion (bous and leon in Greek) that once stood there but were allegedly stolen. Just like the Church of Christ Pantocrator, this building has definitely known better times. And even though the giant marble-framed windows are still impressive, the fenced site is not a place where you hang around with an umbrella, which is too bad.

We blame the weather for skipping the Spice Bazaar, which we pass on the way back to our hotel. Or was the whole day just a bit overwhelming? Either way, the world of Turkish covered bazaars has to wait for tomorrow. To visit the whole Byzantine era in just one day proves to be nearly impossible.

Useful information

Cengo Travel Tours
We did a private tour with guide Emre Onal from Istanbul Sightseeing Tours. The tour was adjusted to our wishes, but based on the Byzantine tour that we found on Local Guiding.

Greek Orthodox Church of St. George
Patrikhane, Bus or tram to Fener, Church opened daily between approximately 9am to 4pm, Admission free, but masses on Sunday morning.

Lonely Planet Istanbul City Guide
Buy only the PDF chapters you need, with the first chapter, Introducing Istanbul, for free (right-click to save).

Other interesting websites
http://www.byzantium1200.com
http://www.3dmekanlar.com