Forgotten History in Gevgelija

Gevgelija holds a wealth of archaeological treasures but is better known as the casino capital of Macedonia. Its location in the south of the country, right at the border with Greece, makes it an attractive place for Greek gambling enthusiasts. Try to look through this obvious ostentation and seek out the historical remnants while they are still here.

Vardarski Rid was once home to an ancient city belonging to the old Macedonian Kingdom. Look for the small hills on the north periphery above the city on the right bank of the river Vardar. When you have found Motel Vardar, where you can enjoy a nice cup of coffee or tea, you are very close to Vardarski Rid (meaning ‘Hill of Vardar’). It lies hidden beyond the old stone steps overgrown with grass, visible from the terrace. The rusting sign which tells you not to take photos is a sad reminder of what was once a rather nice prelude to a quite interesting site.

Archaeological remains on top of Vardarski Rid, photo by author

After you ascend the stairs, a tattered pillar becomes visible in the background. It’s a crumbling communist monument. However, the construction of this ugly piece of concrete led to ancient findings beneath it, so let’s not get too harsh with it. The foundations of the Bronze Age settlement originating from the 2nd century BC were exposed while the foundation of the partisan monument was being laid.

The first archaeological findings were made in 1917 when a man named Rafael Popov found bronze jewelry from the 6th and 5th centuries BC. He brought these relics with him to Sofia where they are currently kept in the Archaeological Museum.

In 1979 and 1984, underground sonar scanning was conducted. Since 1995, when systematic research and exploration began, excavations have revealed many artifacts and remnants of archaeological significance.

The Gevgelija Museum houses the many finds from these excavations, including more than 500 coins from different time frames, religious figurines, bronze pendants, jewelery, tools, keys, kitchen utensils and various items of pottery.

Vardarski Rid, on top of the hill, photo by author

The excavation site itself used to be a museum piece in its own right, showing off well-restored structural remains of numerous buildings. But after some point in time, perhaps when the novelty wore off or the money ran dry, nobody seemed to care anymore. The site has been neglected ever since. Nowadays it’s a favorite picnic spot for locals, evidenced by the trash left behind.

While walking around the neglected site, you will see other damaged concrete communist-era structures standing on the edges of ancient foundations. All these ruins from various ages seem destined to oblivion.

Do you want to visit the archeology or casinos of Gevgelija?
By train: Tel: +389 (0)31.642.55 or http://www.mz.com.mk
By bus: Tel: +389 (0)22.466.011 or http://sas.com.mk

Motel Vardar: Tel: +389 (0)34.213.267 or http://hotels-macedonia.com.mk/motel_vardar.html
Museum: Just 200 meter from the train station at Marshal Tito 26. Tel: +389 (0)34.218.673

Crumbling communist monument on top of Vardarski Rid, photo by author